| Bottom Job |
I'm looking for pictures of the bottom job. I sanded off
all of the paint down to the bare gelcoat. I then applied 6 coats of Interlux
2000/2001 barrier coat. Sanded in between coats to 320 grit. Finally, I applied
3 coats of Interlux VC-17.
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| Chainplates |
This project is still on the "to do" list. The
chainplates are glassed in and not serviceable. This is common issue with
the Tartan 27's.
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| Compass |
The compass was recently broken (summer 2006) by a crew
who stepped on it. It needs to be replace.
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| Deck Painting |
I sanded and faired the deck & doghouse. Then, I
primed with Interlux 404/414 epoxy primer. The doghouse and areas other than
nonskid were rolled & tipped with Pettit EasyPoxy (White). The deck was
painted with 3 coats of Interlux Interdeck.
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| Deck Recore |
This is on the "to do" list. As with many Tartan 27's,
there is a soft spot in the foredeck.
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| Hatch Vent |
I installed a
Nicro Day/Night Solar Vent
in the forward hatch. The forward hatch is solid white plastic (approx 3/8"). I
drilled a pilot hole and then cut out a 3" hole using a jig saw. Go slow on the
jigsaw, it melts the plastic as it cuts.
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| Knotmeter |
Keeldragger had an old Kenyon knotmeter. I am planning to
replace this. Here is a picture of the
front
and
back
. The cut out for this gauge is 4" and the face is 4.5". It is
approx 3.75" long.
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| Handrail Replacement |
The old teak handrails were shot. I purchased new teak
handrails from West Marine.
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| Lazarette Rebuild |
The seats and lazarette are made of teak. When I purchased
that Tartan 27, the teak seats and lazarette were spongy and weak. A big guy
such as myself would have probably stepped thru them if I applied all of my
weight. I sanded all of the grey matter off of the teak. Then, I reinforced the
seats and lazarette with epoxy and fiberglass from underneath. Once the
structural enhancements were complete, I applied approximately 20 coats of Bak
V Spar Varnish.
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| Mast Step |
This was originally on the Spring 2005 project list. Now that the boat is
spashed and the weather is nice, it looks like I won't have time for a proper
fix until fall. In the meantime, I "shimmed" the mast step with a piece of
maple hardwood. Here are the current pictures of the
mast step.
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| Prop Shaft |
The prop shaft was pulled as part of the cutlass bearing
replacement project. You can see picture of the shaft here:
Prop Shaft.
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| Running Rigging |
The running rigging was replaced in 2002. The halyards are
all-rope StaSet X. The jib and main sheet, and spinnaker sheets are Sta-Set.
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| Sails |
|
*NEW* for 2006. I purchased a Kevlar 155% Genoa from Quantum Sails.
With I had more time to us it this season.
New sails were purchased in 2002 from Airforce (Sailnet). This included a Dacron
Main and 155% Genoa. I had the Genoa recut to 140% and use it only for
cruising.
I have an older tri-radial spinnaker which has been used for racing and is
still serviceable.
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| Stuffing Box |
See Cutlass Bearing,
which includes pictures of the stuffing box/packing gland. Keeldragger has a 1"
shaft. I used slightly more than one foot of 3/16" teflon impregnated flax
packing. Two years ago, when I replaced the packing flax, I pulled and replaced
3 strands. While doing the cutlass bearing project, I pulled the stuffing box
apart. I found that I had missed replacing one of the strands the last time.
There are four new strands of packing flax now in the stuffing box. Here is a
picture of the
flax removal
.
|
| Teak Maintenance |
The teak on Keeldragger had been neglected for many years
by the previous owner. All removeable teak has been refinished. All teak has
been varnished, with the exception of the toe rail. The toe rail has been
refinished with Cetol Light. Note: Varnish in all cases is superior than Cetol
for any teak work. Unless you only have two days to get the boat in the water
and need a quicker solution--which is why I used Cetol.
Some pictures of the teak can be found here:
Teak Refinishing
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| Thru-Hull Replacement |
I am in the process of removing the lovely gate valves and
bronze tube inserts with proper Thru-Hull
Replacements. Initially I have replaced the raw water inlet
thru-hull for the engine cooling intake.
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| Winch Replacement |
I replaced the Wilcox-Crittendon aluminum winches with
brand new Anderson 28ST self tailing, stainless steel winches. My crew loves
me! Here are the Winch Replacement
pictures.
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| Window Replacement |
I removed the old foggy, scratched plexiglass windows and
replaced them with 1/4" smoked plexiglass. The worst part was cleaning up the
aluminum window trim. Tartan used butyl rubber (grey sticky stuff) to bed the
windows. It took a lot of scrubbing with a wire brush and mineral spirits to
get these cleaned up.
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|
| Acid Flush |
Per Don Moyer's manual, I did my first
acid flush on the Atomic 4 in 2005. I highly doubt that the previous
owner had flushed the engine due to the amount of gunk that came out.
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| Electronic Ignition |
I purchased the Pertronix Electronic ignition for my late
model (Delco) Atomic 4. I will post pictures once this is installed.
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| Gauges |
New ISSPRO Oil Pressure, Voltage, and Water Temperature
gauges purchased from Moyer Marine on 2005.
Water Temperature Gauge installation.
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| Oil Change |
Oil changes are performed at least twice a season (beginning and ending).
A4 maintenance calls to a change every 50 hours. My seasonal usage has
been less than 50 hours a year.
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| Raw Water Strainer |
Purchased and installed a raw water strainer. Pictures
coming soon.
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| Thermostat Cleaning |
I suspect that my Atomic 4 engine had been overheating,
but with no water temperature gauge (until recently), I had no way of really
knowing. One thing the tipped me off was the smell of "hot engine" last summer.
I pulled apart the thermostat housing and found it packed with mud and small
piece of grass from the Illinois River. I gave the cooling system an acid
flush, soaked the thermostat in vinegar for 24 hours, and spent an hour
scrubbing the thermostat with an old toothbrush. Although the thermostat looks
much better, it failed the stove top test. I placed the thermostat in water and
heated it to 195 degrees. Unfortunately, this 145 degree thermostat never
opened. Here are the pictures: Thermostat
Cleaning
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| Tune Up |
Replaced alternator cap, coil, contact points, plug wires, etc. in 2004.
Replace spark plugs and fuel/water seperator annually.
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| Water Pump Impeller Replacement |
I replaced the water pump impeller in 2005. The old impeller had bent
tines. Flow through the exhaust improved quote a bit with the new
impeller.
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